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Race Replicas is a complete service house with
thousands of quality HO
slot car bodies and parts in stock!
take an original Aurora Willys that was painted red,
no glass, roof scratches
and turn it into a mint 10 condition car that you see
below for a step-by-step restoration
A complete materials list, is
at the end of this article.
wish I had taken a pic of this car when I first got it about
a year ago.
It came to me painted totally red and no window glass.
the body in SPIC-N-SPAN for about 2 weeks until it looked
like you see
above. There was still some residual red paint in
underneath and some leftover factory paint on the grill and
but it is almost all gone.
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paint at all on the license plate or wheelie bar
roof had some unsightly scratches as well.
I had to get the remainder of the red
paint off from underneath the body that the Spic-N-Span didn't
I like to use Testors #1159 Laquer thinner brush cleaner for
on factory bodies as it has about a 10-15 second work time
It will remove most thin leftover
DO THIS WITH REGULAR LAQUER THINNER!
I use a cotton swab and work the
paint out from underneath the body and elsewhere.
Move from one-spot to another not
in one area for too long. Use toothpicks to remove paint
The scratches on the roof were deep
that a polish couldn't remove them by itself. So, I used
wet sand paper and sanded in a front to rear motion. The
toolmakers typically did their final sanding and polishing in
so always sand in the same directions the factory did. If
to, go ahead and sand in a circular motion but then do your
in the front to rear motion.
Once I finished sanding, I used Novus
2 plastic polish to bring back the shine. On some color
like green and especially red, if you polish using a rotary tool
color will actually lighten and not match the rest of the car,
patina, so I simply use a paper towel and vigorously
BY HAND. It took a few minutes but I did not change the
ROTARY TOOLS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON ANY PLASTICS
AS IT CAN CREATE
TOO MUCH HEAT AND MELT THE PLASTIC. 2-Speed
BATTERY powered dremels are recommended if you must use one on
Use a cloth sewn-together wheel not the felt wheel for your
The roof is now nice and shiney, so I
worked all around the body in any other areas that needed
After polishing I cleaned the body scrubbing it with a
tooth-brush to remove
any dirt and residual polish, then some soap and water to clean
body. The body was ready to paint.
Once it was ready to paint, I
the new RRR Paint Mask
for the Willys (RRR #1401-T). I laid in the top hood scoop
I used an airbrush to spray my silver
paint. The silver was Dupli-color Auto paint (small touch
cans found at auto parts stores). I shot the paint
or, perpendicular to the hood, to give it that factory fuzzy
I was then ready to paint the front
and grill so I readied that template.
Install the front template on front
Spray silver and remove template.
Do any cleanup now using some Testors
The rear wheelie bar/plate template
ready to install.
It simply slips down between
struts and align
Painting STRAIGHT DOWN, or topside,
to give the wheelie bars that
silver paint they always had.
With template removed, hopefully
see the factory look paint job. Sides of struts and
bar are not painted, but have a little of that classic fuzzy
Aurora gave them.
I placed the rear tail-light
and then covered the wheelie bars
to protect them from red overspray
Using FLAT RED Tamiya acrylic
the tail lights. The first
I painted it, they were too bright
so I cleaned them and reshot it
but with less coverage.
Here's the finished painted body.
This car didn't have glass, so I
some RRR #1401-G reproduction
I had some crappy old AJ's alum.
so I cleaned and polished them up.
I think they were appropriate for
now great looking car.
Materials & equipment used:
Paasche Model VL Airbrush
Novus Plastic Polish
Testors #1159 Laquer thinner &
PAINT MASK Template - RRR #1401-T
glass - RRR #1401-G
Dupli-color Silver Spray paint
Tamiya Flat Red paint
2000 grit wet sand paper
Soap & Water
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